Friday, May 15, 2020

Beet Natural Dye Experiment - Part 1



I cooked some beets recently, and since dyeing yarn has been on my mind, the opportunity presented itself to use the dark pink cooking water....

As always, I used whatever non-fancy base yarns that I had on hand, split into 5 mini-skein samples.
Sample A: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (100% cotton) - scoured, mordanted with alum
Sample B: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (20% wool, 80% acrylic*) - unscoured, unmordanted (1 tie)
Sample C: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (20% wool, 80% acrylic*) - scoured, unmordanted (3 acrylic ties)
Sample D: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (20% wool, 80% acrylic*) - scoured, mordanted with alum
Sample E: I thought this was Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (100% wool) - scoured, mordanted with alum. But, based on the results, maybe it was Wool-Ease as well and I mislabeled it at some point between making mini-skeins (a while ago I made a bunch) and now?

* Note: the beets shouldn't dye the acrylic here, so the overall color should be lighter than pure wool)

Materials Needed
- Beets
- Wool or cotton yarn
- Dye pot large enough for yarn to move around freely
- Scouring agent or dish soap
- Alum
- Vinegar
- Salt
- Dye pot (not used for food)

Methods
Scour yarn
I don't have any specific wool detergent yet (but might invest in some if I plan to do a lot more dyeing), so I just used gentle dish soap and very gently swished around my yarns. Then I heated up the soapy water + yarn to just below a boil and let it cool again to room temp. Once cooled, I drained off the soap water and rinsed well in cold water.

Mordant
There are many great sets of instructions for mordanting specific fibers (see for example this guide to mordanting wool with alum from All Fiber Arts).

Since I had a mix of fibers in my test, I used a generic procedure dissolving about 1/4 of my fiber weight in alum to warm water in my dye pot. Then I added my fibers and simmered for 30 minutes, then let it cool down and sit overnight.

Extract Dye
This happened while I was cooking. I made pickled beets, which involves boiling the beets for 30 minutes, then adding vinegar, sugar, salt, and spices and boiling another 15 minutes. I saved the cooking water from this (which already contained vinegar and salt) in a jar in the fridge for a few days while I prepared the fiber. If you do this, you probably want to label the jar so household members don't drink it... it's an appetizing dark pink juice color (it's still completely edible at this point, but accidentally drinking beet pickle juice... yuck).



Dye
After my yarns were mordanted (and I pre-soaked the yarn that was intentionally unmordanted for experimental purposes), I poured off the alum water and poured the beet juice into the dyepot. Since it super cold from the fridge, I left my yarn out out of the pot while I heated the dyebath to room temp, then added the yarn to bring everything up to a simmer for 90 minutes. I also added a pinch of salt early in the heating process because I didn't use that much during the cooking/dye extraction.

I was hoping for as vibrant of a color as possible, so I left the yarn in the dyebath to cool and let it sit the rest of the day and overnight (about 24 hours total, including the heating period). Obviously I still had to eat that day, so once the dyepot cooled down I took it off the stove and moved it somewhere out of the way. Sometime during the afternoon, I noticed that the color had turned a darker brick red, rather than the pinker color that it was in the fridge (more notes on this later).

The next morning, I took the yarn out and (wearing gloves) rinsed in cold water. Then I let it dry.

Results

Top row: cotton. From left to right: undyed, scoured + alum + dyed.
Bottom row: wool-ease. From left to right: undyed, not scoured or mordanted, scoured but not mordanted, and scoured + alum + dyed

After drying, I ended up with a range of peaches, depending on the fiber and mordanting. The cotton (Sample A) was darkest, kind of a brownish peach. The unscoured Wool-Ease (sample B) was classic light peach, and the scoured Wool-Eases (samples C and D) were darker peach with hints of salmony warmth.

Scouring had more of an effect than mordanting, with the unscoured (sample B) coming out a touch lighter/more peachy. The two scoured samples (C and D) were about the same, even though D was pre-mordanted with alum and C was not. D might have been ever-so-slightly darker, but it's hard to tell if that's just my own confirmation bias.

As noted above, I expected sample E to be darker than B-D since acrylic doesn't absorb color and sample E was supposed to be 100% wool. Given the result that E turned out exactly like D, I'm going to try again in the future with a new wool mini-skein made straight from a skein with labels still on it to make sure it is actually wool. So I'm not interpreting anything about E right now, and I didn't include it in my picture to avoid any confusion further on (if you're wondering anyway, it looks just like D).

A Big Observation, Conclusions, Future Directions
The dyebath color darkened and got more red/less pink as the dyeing process went on. When I finished and was cleaning up, I noticed my enamelware dyepot had a crack in the lining with metal showing through. This was definitely not there during scouring or mordanting steps. In hindsight, while simmering the yarn in the dyebath I had heard a single pop/crack sound, but didn't think much of it at the time. That was probably the lining cracking, and maybe the exposure to whatever iron is in the pot darkened/saddened my colors. I can't buy a new dyepot right now, so will test this in the future maybe with a microwave or sun dye to add heat without exposure to the dyepot. (Edit: I acquired a new dyepot... convinced myself that my old cooking pot needed to be replaced, which of course frees that pot up for dye...)

Alternative interpretations for the red instead of pink results:
- Too much heat (either too hot, or heated for too long). I don't think it was too hot, because the cooking process involves boiling and that still yielded pink. It might have been heating for too long, which I could test in the future.
- Sat too long/oxidized. Can't rule this out. The pickled beet juice sat for a few days in the fridge before dyeing and stayed pink throughout that wait time, but it was sealed in an air-tight jar. The dye pot was covered, but definitely not air-tight.
- Something in the water. I used tap water, which is pretty clean but might have had tiny impurities in it. Not sure why this would cause darkening over time during the dyeing, rather than right away though.
- Too much or too little vinegar or salt? I didn't really measure, but used about 1/4 vinegar to water for the cooking recipe. Some of the water probably boiled off, but that was the approximate ratio. I could experiment with adding more vinegar or adding baking soda to adjust the pH. (Later edit: upon further research, I found out that the dye compound in beets, betanin, is known to be pH sensitive and turns more brown as pH becomes alkaline. So I will make sure to rinse better after scouring and add some more vinegar for good measure.)

The dyebath was also still quite red when I was done. I used 1.3 pounds (590g) of beets for about 15g of yarn across all of the mini-skeins, so I could probably have dyed more yarn.

Overall, I was expecting more pink than orange, but the peachy color is also very pretty, especially in the wool-eases (blends). I'm not as big of a fan of the cotton, which was much brighter while wet but dulled while drying. There will definitely be a part 2 of this experiment!

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