Popsicle Mold - Make Your Own!

As the weather heats up, those popsicle recipes on Pinterest are looking more and more irresistable.... I'm a huge fan of fruit and/or yogurt popsicles, with no need for added sugar! Sometimes you can even blend in some hidden veggies for extra texture.

I don't have a popsicle mold at home though. Instead of rushing out to buy one, which costs money and means you have to wait for shipping, I made my own out of a used spice container. It took just 5 minutes to make, used materials I had lying around the house, and works great!

I used a Costco big spice jar (e.g. for red pepper flakes, black pepper) for my mold that makes 4 popsicles at a time. You don't have to use the same one - almost any plastic one will work, but obviously the shape of the popsicles will be different. Just pick a plastic jar that is the same width all the way around (otherwise, if there's a wider section at the bottom of the mold, your popsicles will get stuck in that wide section and you would be able to pull them out after freezing).

Materials needed:

• Empty spice container
  
• Popsicle sticks or disposable chopsticks
• Aluminum foil
  
• Knife

Steps:

1. Cut the top off the spice container along the dotted line shown. We want it to be the same width all the way around.
2. Cover the top of the cut-off container with aluminum foil.
3. Poke 4 holes in the aluminum foil as shown, roughly equally spaced so that each hole is in the middle of a quadrant. If you have a knife, this can help you poke through the foil before you stick your popsicle sticks or chopsticks through.
4. Fill mold with your popsicle filling of choice. Insert one popsicle stick or chopstick through each of your four holes. Freeze until firm.
   
5. Once frozen, run the sides of the mold under warm water to melt the side slightly and loosen the popsicle from the mold. Pull out the popsicles from the mold, and cut the large block into quarters. Eat!
   

You can adjust the size of your popsicles by putting more or less filling in the mold (so that it goes higher or less high up the sides). I wouldn't recommend trying to fit more than 4 in the mold at a time, because the thickness is what helps keep the frozen popsicle together without cracking.

Leave a comment or pin this on Pinterest if you try it!

Popsicle recipes to try with your new popsicle mold:

- Vanilla apple popsicles (pictured in the mold-making instructions)

- More coming soon (I'll update this page as I add more)

Avocado Dye Experiment - Part 1

 

Avocados yield a beautiful pink dye. Surprising? Specifically, the dye comes from the pits and skins (so you get to eat all the yummy bits, yay!)

The internet has several "recipes" or posts about avocado dye, but the instructions and results are highly variable. Success and color seems to depend on pH, type of avocado, extraction method/time, fiber, and ?? magic ?? (for the links that I found useful, see bottom of article). This experimental series is designed to see if I can reliably extract pink dye from avocados on different natural fibers.

For this experiment, I made dye from the pits and skins of 11 avocados. I scrubbed off the residual bits of avocado flesh, chopped the pits into eighths, and froze everything in a big ziplock bag until I had enough (maybe 2-3 weeks). [Note: you don't need 11 avocados. As I found out, 11 is wayyyyy overkill. Probably just 4-5 avocados would have been more than enough for my half pound of wool.]

As always, I used whatever base yarns that I had at home.
- Full skein (227g/8oz) of Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (100% wool) - base color: natural
- 4 ties (minimal weight) around the skein of Lion Brand Wool-Ease (20% wool, 80% acrylic) - note: the acrylic content should not dye, so the final color should be lighter than pure wool - base color: fisherman
- 2 ties (minimal weight) around the skein of Red Heart Classic 10 Crochet Thread (100% mercerized cotton) - base color: natural

Materials Needed
- Avocado pits and skins
- Wool and/or cotton yarn
- Dye pot large enough for yarn to move around freely
- Scouring agent or dish soap
- Baking soda or washing soda (latter preferred)
- Dye pot or two (not used for food)

Methods
I scoured everything per my standard procedure detailed here, leaving the yarn in a bucket of water because I was planning to dye soon. I didn't use any mordants for this experiment because avocado dye isn't supposed to require mordant - avocados have naturally high tannin content, which acts as the mordant. (I do plan to try alum and possibly black walnut tannin in future experiments.)

Extract Dye
I wanted to see if the skins and pits gave different colors. So, I put chopped up avocado skins in one pot and chopped up pits in the other. I read that you're not supposed to boil the dye because that can brown it, so I alternated heating for 5-10 minutes (watching to make sure the pots didn't get past simmering) and letting the pots sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes on the stove with the heat off. I did this for 3 cycles of heating/waiting, then left it alone to sit overnight. Throughout the next day I did 6 more heat/wait cycles. (Total dye extraction time = 25 hours).

During this process, I kept an eye on the color of the dyebaths. I don't have litmus paper to test pH, so I just relied on my eyes. If things didn't look pink or at least red/orange, I added some baking soda to raise the pH of the dyebath (make it more alkaline). In hindsight, I should have measured the baking soda amount... sorry, will do that next time. My rough guess: about 1/8 cup of baking soda per pot. As you can kind of see from the before-and-after pics below, the dyebaths were kind of murky yellow before baking soda but got much more red/pink as the pH increased. The dyebaths got more concentrated as time passed, but the color change was really from the baking soda.

Dye

I scooped out as many of the avocado pit and skin chunks as I could (and saved them in a plastic bag and froze them, in case I wanted to use them again). Then I draped my yarn across the two pots, with one end of the skein in the avocado skins dyebath and the other end in the avocado pits dyebath. I did about 8 heat/wait cycles throughout the day.

The pot edges were kind of high so the middle didn't get much dye, and the dye didn't really wick up the yarn to cover the dry spot. I tried to rotate the yarn slightly throughout the dye process and pour some of the dye over the middle section so that it got at least a little dye.

As always, I was hoping for as vibrant of a color as possible, so I left the yarn in the dyebath for the rest of the day and overnight (about 24 hours total).

The next morning, I took the yarn out and let it dry fully BEFORE rinsing.

Results

After letting the yarn dry for 2 days, I rinsed in cold water until the water ran clear. Here are pictures of the yarn before and after rising. The rinsewater from the first few rinses was super dark, almost the color of the dyebath (which makes sense, I guess).

On the 100% wool, the avocado skin dye came out a bit pinker, and the avocado pits created a somewhat browner pink. Here is the stretched-out wool skein after fully drying - skin-dyed side on the left, pit-dyed side on the right.

The wool blend (20% wool, 80% acrylic) came out a nice blush color, lighter than the pure wool (as expected). I didn't notice much of a difference between skins and pits, probably because such a small fraction of the yarn dyed.

The cotton thread was fairly different between skins and pits, with the pits giving a softer light pink color (middle of picture below) and the skins dying a much darker, almost orange-tinged pink (right). Undyed cotton thread is at the left for reference.

Conclusions and Future Directions
I'm really happy with how this experiment turned out! The colors are beautiful on all fibers and especially vivid on the wool.

11 avocados gave WAY more dye than I needed for 8oz of wool. The dyebath was roughly the same color when I poured it out as when I started steeping the yarn. I probably could have dyed at least twice as much fiber to the same color (but unfortunately I needed my stove back for cooking actual food and didn't have time for more).

My next step with avocado dye is to do a second extraction from the saved pits and skins (together) from this experiment. I scooped out most of the solid content but there were definitely some left when I poured out the dyebath, so I'm guessing I have around 9 avocados worth for the second extraction. I'll use this to dye a full 1000yd cone of crochet thread (100% mercerized cotton) because I'm designing a tank top that would look lovely with some of this gorgeous pink.

Useful Links About Avocado Dye - Sites with info that I found helpful. I haven't experimented enough to personally verify all their information, but I've tried some of their tips or think they make sense/are worth a try.

https://rebeccadesnos.com/blogs/journal/avocado-dye-faqs-top-tips-for-pink
http://www.allnaturaldyeing.com/dyeing-with-avocados/

Beet Natural Dye Experiment - Part 1

I cooked some beets recently, and since dyeing yarn has been on my mind, the opportunity presented itself to use the dark pink cooking water....

As always, I used whatever non-fancy base yarns that I had on hand, split into 5 mini-skein samples.
Sample A: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (100% cotton) - scoured, mordanted with alum
Sample B: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (20% wool, 80% acrylic*) - unscoured, unmordanted (1 tie)
Sample C: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (20% wool, 80% acrylic*) - scoured, unmordanted (3 acrylic ties)
Sample D: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (20% wool, 80% acrylic*) - scoured, mordanted with alum
Sample E: I thought this was Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (100% wool) - scoured, mordanted with alum. But, based on the results, maybe it was Wool-Ease as well and I mislabeled it at some point between making mini-skeins (a while ago I made a bunch) and now?

* Note: the beets shouldn't dye the acrylic here, so the overall color should be lighter than pure wool)

Materials Needed
- Beets
- Wool or cotton yarn
- Dye pot large enough for yarn to move around freely
- Scouring agent or dish soap
- Alum
- Vinegar
- Salt
- Dye pot (not used for food)

Methods
Scour yarn
I don't have any specific wool detergent yet (but might invest in some if I plan to do a lot more dyeing), so I just used gentle dish soap and very gently swished around my yarns. Then I heated up the soapy water + yarn to just below a boil and let it cool again to room temp. Once cooled, I drained off the soap water and rinsed well in cold water.

Mordant
There are many great sets of instructions for mordanting specific fibers (see for example this guide to mordanting wool with alum from All Fiber Arts).

Since I had a mix of fibers in my test, I used a generic procedure dissolving about 1/4 of my fiber weight in alum to warm water in my dye pot. Then I added my fibers and simmered for 30 minutes, then let it cool down and sit overnight.

Extract Dye

This happened while I was cooking. I made pickled beets, which involves boiling the beets for 30 minutes, then adding vinegar, sugar, salt, and spices and boiling another 15 minutes. I saved the cooking water from this (which already contained vinegar and salt) in a jar in the fridge for a few days while I prepared the fiber. If you do this, you probably want to label the jar so household members don't drink it... it's an appetizing dark pink juice color (it's still completely edible at this point, but accidentally drinking beet pickle juice... yuck).

Dye
After my yarns were mordanted (and I pre-soaked the yarn that was intentionally unmordanted for experimental purposes), I poured off the alum water and poured the beet juice into the dyepot. Since it super cold from the fridge, I left my yarn out out of the pot while I heated the dyebath to room temp, then added the yarn to bring everything up to a simmer for 90 minutes. I also added a pinch of salt early in the heating process because I didn't use that much during the cooking/dye extraction.

I was hoping for as vibrant of a color as possible, so I left the yarn in the dyebath to cool and let it sit the rest of the day and overnight (about 24 hours total, including the heating period). Obviously I still had to eat that day, so once the dyepot cooled down I took it off the stove and moved it somewhere out of the way. Sometime during the afternoon, I noticed that the color had turned a darker brick red, rather than the pinker color that it was in the fridge (more notes on this later).

The next morning, I took the yarn out and (wearing gloves) rinsed in cold water. Then I let it dry.

Results

Top row: cotton. From left to right: undyed, scoured + alum + dyed.
Bottom row: wool-ease. From left to right: undyed, not scoured or mordanted, scoured but not mordanted, and scoured + alum + dyed

After drying, I ended up with a range of peaches, depending on the fiber and mordanting. The cotton (Sample A) was darkest, kind of a brownish peach. The unscoured Wool-Ease (sample B) was classic light peach, and the scoured Wool-Eases (samples C and D) were darker peach with hints of salmony warmth.

Scouring had more of an effect than mordanting, with the unscoured (sample B) coming out a touch lighter/more peachy. The two scoured samples (C and D) were about the same, even though D was pre-mordanted with alum and C was not. D might have been ever-so-slightly darker, but it's hard to tell if that's just my own confirmation bias.

As noted above, I expected sample E to be darker than B-D since acrylic doesn't absorb color and sample E was supposed to be 100% wool. Given the result that E turned out exactly like D, I'm going to try again in the future with a new wool mini-skein made straight from a skein with labels still on it to make sure it is actually wool. So I'm not interpreting anything about E right now, and I didn't include it in my picture to avoid any confusion further on (if you're wondering anyway, it looks just like D).

A Big Observation, Conclusions, Future Directions
The dyebath color darkened and got more red/less pink as the dyeing process went on. When I finished and was cleaning up, I noticed my enamelware dyepot had a crack in the lining with metal showing through. This was definitely not there during scouring or mordanting steps. In hindsight, while simmering the yarn in the dyebath I had heard a single pop/crack sound, but didn't think much of it at the time. That was probably the lining cracking, and maybe the exposure to whatever iron is in the pot darkened/saddened my colors. I can't buy a new dyepot right now, so will test this in the future maybe with a microwave or sun dye to add heat without exposure to the dyepot. (Edit: I acquired a new dyepot... convinced myself that my old cooking pot needed to be replaced, which of course frees that pot up for dye...)

Alternative interpretations for the red instead of pink results:
- Too much heat (either too hot, or heated for too long). I don't think it was too hot, because the cooking process involves boiling and that still yielded pink. It might have been heating for too long, which I could test in the future.
- Sat too long/oxidized. Can't rule this out. The pickled beet juice sat for a few days in the fridge before dyeing and stayed pink throughout that wait time, but it was sealed in an air-tight jar. The dye pot was covered, but definitely not air-tight.
- Something in the water. I used tap water, which is pretty clean but might have had tiny impurities in it. Not sure why this would cause darkening over time during the dyeing, rather than right away though.
- Too much or too little vinegar or salt? I didn't really measure, but used about 1/4 vinegar to water for the cooking recipe. Some of the water probably boiled off, but that was the approximate ratio. I could experiment with adding more vinegar or adding baking soda to adjust the pH. (Later edit: upon further research, I found out that the dye compound in beets, betanin, is known to be pH sensitive and turns more brown as pH becomes alkaline. So I will make sure to rinse better after scouring and add some more vinegar for good measure.)

The dyebath was also still quite red when I was done. I used 1.3 pounds (590g) of beets for about 15g of yarn across all of the mini-skeins, so I could probably have dyed more yarn.

Overall, I was expecting more pink than orange, but the peachy color is also very pretty, especially in the wool-eases (blends). I'm not as big of a fan of the cotton, which was much brighter while wet but dulled while drying. There will definitely be a part 2 of this experiment!

Upcycled Hummus Container Planter DIY

This super easy and quick upcycle is a great way to combine my loves of apartment gardening and not wasting stuff. It makes a cute, customizable, and lightweight planter that comes with its own drip tray - perfect for hanging or sitting on a windowsill!

Materials needed:
- Hummus container with lid (family/chef size work really well for this)
- Acrylic paint
- Paint brush or sponge
- Drill, or hammer and nail, or X-acto knife (or something else to punch holes in the bottom of the container)

Steps:
1. Eat hummus (duh)

2. Wash and dry hummus container and lid. You can peel off the label (recommended to make the paint job smoother), or leave it on and just cover with extra layers of paint.

3. Paint the outside of the container (and outside of lid, optional) with acrylic. You can do solid coats, stripes, marbling, colors, whatever you want. For the pictures here, I used a wide sponge brush to make a fast base coat in white, let dry for 2 hours, did a second base coat the same way, let dry overnight, then painted over the base with colors.

(In case you're not familiar with acrylic - make sure to wash out your brush/sponge when you're done using it. If the paint dries in there, then your brush/sponge is done for.)

4. Let the finished paint job dry overnight.

5. Use your drill (or hammer and nail, or whatever) to punch holes in the bottom of the container for drainage. Do NOT punch holes in your lid - this will be the drip tray that goes under the planter to catch drained water.

6. Plant something in your beautiful new planter and enjoy!